If you’ve never worked with epoxy, it can seem intimidating; but trust me when I tell you… if you know how to use a paint brush, then you can absolutely DIY epoxy your own garage floors!
Prep is the most important part of doing epoxy to ensure that it will last. You want to pay close attention to the instructions that come with the kit to make sure you prep the concrete well, follow the dry/cure times and abide by the weather requirements. First, you want to make sure to clean the concrete really well and prep it for the epoxy so that it will adhere well. Renting a grinding machine is the best option but if you would rather not go down that path, you can also do an acid etch solution. I used a 3-in-1 degreaser, cleaner & etcher from Rust-oleum. I gave everything a good power wash, scrubbed in the solution with a stiff bristle broom, rinsed it really well and then power washed again! Let it dry completely (24 hours) and then you’re ready for epoxy!
If you have large cracks or chips in the concrete you will want to use the Rust-oleum patch & repair kit. It’s super easy to use and will fill in any of those imperfections prior to applying your epoxy.
Once the floor is clean and dry, and you’ve taped off your walls and cabinets, you’re ready for epoxy! I used Benjamin Moore’s Corotech waterborne Amine Epoxy. I’ve used the Rust-oleum garage kit before, which worked great, but this is a heavier duty epoxy similar to what the pros use. It’s more expensive but should give better durability over time. You can choose from an assortment of colors or you can have it tinted to a custom color, I had mine tinted to match Accessible Beige by Sherwin Williams. The kit comes in a 2 part system. You will follow the instructions on the can to mix the epoxy together. Once you pour the activator in, mix thoroughly with a paddle drill attachment for 3-5 minutes and then let it sit for 30 minutes. Once it’s mixed, you only have 2 hours of work time before the product’s pot life is up, so make sure you’re ready to go beforehand and I recommend only mixing 1 kit at a time. For the size of my garage, I needed 4 colored kits and 3 clear coat kits to get full coverage. Benjamin Moore’s website has a paint coverage calculator to help you figure out how much you’re going to need for your space. This kit says it covers 375sq ft but I think it’s less. I’d get an extra. You definitely don’t want for run out mid project. You’ll want to map out an area for each kit so you know exactly where to put the epoxy to ensure you’re not applying it too thick or thin. I used an 18″ roller to apply mine– it was super quick and easy!
Work across your floor in 10×10 sections. Roll the epoxy on the floor and then throw the flakes. *Important* make sure you’re wearing spike shoes, you don’t want to leave shoe prints all over your new epoxy! It is very sticky so unless you are wearing the epoxy spikes you don’t be able to step on it. You can do heavy or light chip coverage, I found the technique I liked best to get them evenly dispersed was to throw them up in the air and let them fall randomly. The heavier the chip, the more you can hide imperfections. It’s totally personal preference. I’ve found that the heavier chip also gives better grip. Since my base is such a light color, I went with a very heavy chip to help disguise any dirt, drips, or marks the floor will get over time. Keep working across the floor until the entire floor is covered. You will need to wait 24 hours before you can apply your top coat. After 24 hours. It’s helpful to take a leaf blower and remove any loose chips. Take a scraper and lightly scrape along the floor. This will remove any loose chips.
This part goes faster and doesn’t take as much product. It’s the same epoxy kit you used for the color but instead of it being tinted, it is clear. You will apply this with a roller just like you did the color. It’s easy to miss spots because it’s clear so get down at eye level to make sure everything has even coverage. Optionally, you can add Rust-oleum Anti- Skid Additive to the top coat to give it a gritty texture. I chose not to do that because I went with such a heavy chip, which acts as an anti slip anyway.
Rustoleum makes a really easy to use patch and repair kit, linked here. Only repair cracks, DO NOT fill in the expansion joints!
The chips create a bumpy texture that helps the epoxy not be slippery, but the top coat smooths them over, so if you want a grittier texture, use an anti- skid additive in your top coat, linked here.
Weather was the deciding factor for me, when doing epoxy in an outdoor area you have to be conscientious of the humidity/ temperature. So I decided to install cabinets during the colder months, then all I had to do was tape them off when I did the epoxy!
I used Benjamin Moore Corotech High Performance Waterborne Amine Epoxy kits, each kit says it covers about 375 sq ft but I think it’s less. Our garage is 805 sq ft and I used 4 kits. You definitely don’t want to be short. I’d rather end up with extra than not have enough.
Yes. Do not start until you’re ready to do the whole thing. Once the epoxy is mixed, you only have 2 hours to roll it onto the floor and throw the chips before it cures. After the first coat is applied, wait 8 hours before doing the top coat. Then wait 72 hours for it to fully cure before you put anything back on the floor. Wait a week or two to park a car.
Prep is crucial. You have to grind (best option) or use an acid etch (what I did). The better you prep, the longer it lasts. You also HAVE to follow the proper dry/ cure times to achieve the best results. At my old house, I used the Rust-oleum garage kit and it was a great low- budget option, we never had any issues with it. This time, I spent more to get the professional product from Benjamin Moore. When done correctly, it can last up to 30 years– we shall see!
The Corotech epoxy can be tinted to any paint color! I had mine tinted to match Accessible Beige and used gray/ beige/ white/ black chips from Amazon, linked here.